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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.